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Post by polaris22 on Oct 30, 2012 12:28:45 GMT -5
Whats the best clutch to run for improved stock class on ice?
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Post by Bob Vehring on Oct 30, 2012 13:01:53 GMT -5
I would look at a Max Torque Dragon skin. will bolt right on and has adjustments, both springs and weights that will dial in to any conditions. Easiest clutch to work on of any of them
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Post by Jim Donovan on Nov 19, 2012 14:31:18 GMT -5
Let me ask a few questions. Do you have a tachometer on your sled to tell me what the top rpm your driver is turning? Do you know at what rpm your engine is at its peak torque curve? With those two numbers I can better tell you what you need or what you can do to your existing clutch to get a little more "balls" out of it before you spend any money.
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Post by polaris22 on Nov 20, 2012 8:18:22 GMT -5
Top RPM is 7200. I don't know what rpm is at peak torque curve. Its just a stock motor with valve springs.
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Post by Bob Vehring on Nov 20, 2012 18:14:20 GMT -5
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Post by Jim Donovan on Nov 21, 2012 8:54:55 GMT -5
Based on that rpm I would do it in steps and see what you like best. Take your stock clutch you got with the snowmobile and the only thing you need to buy is a black spring and 6 regular SSB shoes. (These are the lighter shoes used in go karts.) First time out just change 3 of the shoes so you have light heavy, light heavy, light heavy. The heavy shoe will be on the left hand side of the drive plate as you look down between the drive tabs. Put in the black spring but save the green spring. Watch the video on YouTube--Max torque clutch assembly video to see how to change the spring and assemble. Parts you can get from Holeshotinc.com .
I have commented on having several shoe assemblies already set up so you could make quick swaps without having to take off the chain. Look at some prior post in this section. The snap ring on the end of the clutch doesn't have to be used since you are holding the clutch in place with the bolt and washer. This way you can pull out the shoe assembly real quick.
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